IFSC Climbing World Cup explained

Above:IFSC Climbing World Cup
Bodyclass:hlist nowraplinks
Headerstyle:border-top: 1px solid #aaa
Header1:Seasons
Data2:
Header3:Disciplines
Data4:
  • Lead
  • Bouldering
  • Speed
Header5:Most gold medals
Data6: Janja Garnbret (46)
Header7:Most titles
Data8: Sandrine Levet (10) Janja Garnbret (10)

The IFSC Climbing World Cup is a series of competition climbing events held during the year at various locations around the world, organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). At each event, the athletes compete in three disciplines: lead, bouldering, and speed. The number of events varies from year to year, and the winners for each discipline are decided by the points accumulated in the year.

The first World Cup was held in 1989 and included only lead competition climbing events. Speed climbing was introduced in 1998, and bouldering in 1999. For 18 seasons, from 1989 to 2006, World Cups were held under the auspices of the International Council for Competition Climbing which was part of the UIAA; they were called UIAA Climbing World Cups. Since 2007, they have been held under the auspices of the IFSC.[1]

Scoring system

Individual disciplines

At the end of each World Cup competition, a trophy is awarded to the winner, the top three athletes are awarded gold, bronze, and silver medals, and the top six athletes are awarded prize money.As of 2022,[2] the top 80 competitors of individual World Cup competitions are eligible to accrue points. Tied competitors are awarded the average of the points allocated for the tied rank positions, rounded down to two decimal places.

Rankingwidth=25 1width=15 2width=15 3width=15 4width=15 5width=15 6width=15 7width=15 8width=15 9width=15 10width=15 11width=15 12width=15 13width=15 14width=15 15
Points1000 805 690 610 545 495 455 415 380 350 325 300 280 260 240
Rankingwidth=25 16width=15 17width=15 18width=15 19width=15 20width=15 21width=15 22width=15 23width=15 24width=15 25width=15 26width=15 27width=15 28width=15 29width=15 30
Points220 205 185 170 155 145 130 120 105 95 84 73 63 56 48
Rankingwidth=25 31width=15 32width=15 33width=15 34width=15 35width=15 36width=15 37width=15 38width=15 39width=15 40width=15 41width=15 42width=15 43width=15 44-45width=15 46
Points42 37 33 30 27 24 21 19 17 15 14 13 12 11 10
Rankingwidth=25 47-48width=15 49-50width=15 51-53width=15 54-56width=15 57-59width=15 60-63width=15 64-68width=15 69-74width=15 75-80
Points9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
For each discipline (lead, bouldering and speed), the points awarded to each athlete are added together throughout the World Cup series in order to determine an overall World Cup ranking. If an athlete participates in all competitions in a discipline, their worst result is discarded (provided that IFSC organizes at least 6 competitions for that season). At the end of the season, the athlete with highest ranking in each discipline will be considered to be the overall winner of the World Cup series, and will be awarded a trophy. The athletes ranking second and third will be awarded a plate.[3]

National team ranking

At the end of each competition, a national team ranking is determined, for each discipline, by adding the ranking points of the three highest ranked individual team members. For each discipline (lead, bouldering and speed), the points awarded to each team are added together throughout the World Cup series in order to determine the overall team ranking. If a team participates in all competitions in a discipline, its worst result is discarded (provided that IFSC organizes at least 6 competitions for that season). At the end of the season, the team with highest overall ranking is awarded a trophy.

Combined ranking

Discipline !! Overall
score !! Overall
ranking
Lead 665 1
Bouldering 470 2
Speed 0
Combined 1135 1

For each season, results obtained by each athlete across events and across disciplines (Lead, Bouldering and Speed) are considered to determine a combined ranking. At the end of the season, prizes are awarded to the top three athletes. The combined title was first introduced in 1998, together with the first speed event.[4] Bouldering was introduced in the following year.

From 1998 to 2017, the combined score for each athlete was obtained by adding together the overall World Cup scores obtained by that athlete in at least two different disciplines. For instance, in 2017 Janja Garnbret won the combined title with a combined score of 1135 points, which was the sum of the overall scores she obtained in Lead and Bouldering. Since she competed in no Speed event, her score in that discipline was zero.

+ Jakob Schubert's results in 2018Discipline Selected
event
Rankings
General Relative
Lead Villars 1 1
Arco 1 1
Bouldering Meringen 4 3
Munich 3 2
Speed Wujiang 27 2
Xiamen 26 4
Product of relative rankings48

Since 2018, more complex rules were applied to determine the combined score.[5] Only athletes participating in at least two competitions in each discipline (i.e. 2 in Bouldering, 2 in Lead, and 2 in Speed) were eligible for the combined title. For each World Cup event, rankings were adjusted by discarding non-eligible athletes. Since they were relative to a selected subset of athletes (the eligible ones), these adjusted rankings were called relative rankings, as opposed to the general rankings applied to the whole set of participants. If an eligible athlete participated in more than two competitions in a discipline, only the best two results in that discipline were considered. For each eligible athlete, the relative rankings obtained in the selected six events were multiplied together to determine a combined score. Athletes were ranked according to their combined score in ascending order. Namely, the athlete with the lowest score was awarded the combined title. For instance, in 2018 Jakob Schubert won the Combined World Cup with a score of 48 points, determined as shown in the table.

In 2019, individual combined events were introduced in the World Cup series, where participants are required to compete in all disciplines (Bouldering, Lead and Speed) and medals are awarded based on their combined results.[6] Nevertheless, at the end of the season, combined World Cup rankings will be determined as well, with the same method applied in 2018, based on results across disciplines obtained by each athlete in six selected events.

Men's results

Complete rankings starting from the 1991 season are available on the IFSC web site.[7]

Lead

YearWinnerSecondThird
1989 Simon Nadin Jerry Moffatt
1990 François Legrand
1991 François Legrand (2) Yuji Hirayama
1992 François Legrand (3) Jean-Baptiste Tribout
1993 François Legrand (4) François Petit Yuji Hirayama
1994 François Legrand Jean-Baptiste Tribout
1995 François Petit François Legrand
1996 François Petit
1997 François Legrand (5) François Petit
1998 Yuji Hirayama
1999 François Petit (2) François Legrand
2000 Yuji Hirayama (2) Alexandre Chabot
2001 Alexandre Chabot Tomáš Mrázek
2002 Alexandre Chabot (2) Tomáš Mrázek
2003 Alexandre Chabot (3) Ramón Julián
2004 Tomáš Mrázek Alexandre Chabot
2005
2006 Patxi Usobiaga David Lama
Tomáš Mrázek
2007 Patxi Usobiaga (2) Ramón Julián Tomáš Mrázek
2008 Tomáš Mrázek Ramón Julián
2009 Adam Ondra Patxi Usobiaga Sachi Amma
2010 Ramón Julián Jakob Schubert Adam Ondra
2011 Jakob Schubert Ramón Julián Sachi Amma
2012 Sachi Amma Ramón Julián Jakob Schubert
2013 Sachi Amma (2) Jakob Schubert Ramón Julián
2014 Jakob Schubert (2) Sean McColl Adam Ondra
2015 Adam Ondra (2) Jakob Schubert
2016 Domen Škofic Jakob Schubert Romain Desgranges
2017 Romain Desgranges Stefano Ghisolfi
2018 Jakob Schubert (3) Stefano Ghisolfi Romain Desgranges
Domen Škofic
2019 Adam Ondra (3) Alberto Ginés López Sean McColl
2021 Stefano Ghisolfi Sean Bailey Masahiro Higuchi
2022 Luka Potočar Taisei Homma Jesse Grupper
2023 Sorato Anraku Alexander Megos Taisei Homma
2024 Toby Roberts Shion Omata Sorato Anraku

Bouldering

YearWinnerSecondThird
1999 Christian Core Jérôme Meyer
2000
2001 Jérôme Meyer
2002 Christian Core (2)
Jérôme Meyer (2)
Malcolm Smith
2003 Jérôme Meyer (3)
2004 Kilian Fischhuber Jérôme Meyer
2005 Kilian Fischhuber Jérôme Meyer
2006 Jérôme Meyer (4) Kilian Fischhuber
2007 Kilian Fischhuber (2) Dmitri Sarafutdinov
2008 Kilian Fischhuber (3) David Lama Dmitri Sarafutdinov
2009 Kilian Fischhuber (4)
2010 Adam Ondra Kilian Fischhuber
2011 Kilian Fischhuber (5) Dmitri Sarafutdinov
2012 Kilian Fischhuber Jakob Schubert
2013 Dmitri Sarafutdinov Jakob Schubert Sean McColl
2014 Jan Hojer Dmitri Sarafutdinov
2015 Chon Jong-won Jan Hojer Adam Ondra
2016 Tomoa Narasaki Kokoro Fujii Alexey Rubtsov
2017 Chon Jong-won (2) Tomoa Narasaki Alexey Rubtsov
2018 Jernej Kruder Tomoa Narasaki
2019 Tomoa Narasaki (2) Adam Ondra Yoshiyuki Ogata
2021 Yoshiyuki Ogata Kokoro Fujii Adam Ondra
2022 Yoshiyuki Ogata (2) Tomoa Narasaki Kokoro Fujii
2023 Sorato Anraku Lee Do-hyun Tomoa Narasaki
2024 Sorato Anraku (2) Meichi Narasaki Tomoa Narasaki

Speed

YearWinnerSecondThird
1998 Andrey Vedenmeer Vladimir Netsvetaev Alexey Kozlov
1999 Vladislav Baranov Vladimir Zakharov
2000 Andrey Vedenmeer (2) Iakov Soubbotine Vladimir Zakharov
2001 Maksym Styenkovyy Alexander Chaoulsky Alexander Peshekhonov
2002 Alexander Peshekhonov Maksym Styenkovyy Sergey Sinitsyn
2003 (2) Alexander Peshekhonov Iakov Soubbotine
2004 Sergey Sinitsyn Evgeny Vaitcekhovsky Alexander Peshekhonov
2005 Evgeny Vaitcekhovsky Sergey Sinitsyn
2006 Evgeny Vaitcekhovsky (2) Sergey Sinitsyn Alexander Peshekhonov
2007 Sergey Sinitsyn (2) Evgeny Vaitcekhovsky Alexander Kosterin
2008 Evgeny Vaitcekhovsky (3) Sergey Sinitsyn Zhong Qixin
2009 Sergey Sinitsyn (3) Sergey Abdrakhmanov Evgeny Vaitcekhovsky
2010 Stanislav Kokorin Evgeny Vaitcekhovsky
2011 Łukasz Świrk Sergey Sinitsyn Sergey Abdrakhmanov
2012 Stanislav Kokorin (2) Danyil Boldyrev Yaroslav Gontaryk
2013 Stanislav Kokorin (3) Zhong Qixin
2014 Danyil Boldyrev Marcin Dzieński
2015 Zhong Qixin Danyil Boldyrev
2016 Marcin Dzieński Reza Alipour Aleksander Shikov
2017 Vladislav Deulin Reza Alipour Ludovico Fossali
2018 Bassa Mawem Danyil Boldyrev Dmitry Timofeev
2019 Bassa Mawem (2) Vladislav Deulin
2021 Veddriq Leonardo Kiromal Katibin Marcin Dzieński
2022 Veddriq Leonardo (2) Kiromal Katibin Long Jinbao
2023 Veddriq Leonardo (3) Wu Peng Samuel Watson
2024 Samuel Watson Matteo Zurloni Xinshang Wang

Combined

YearWinnerSecondThird
1998[8]
1999 François Petit
2000 Alexandre Chabot
2001 Alexandre Chabot (2) Kilian Fischhuber
2002 Maksym Styenkovyy Kilian Fischhuber
2003 Evgeny Ovchinnikov
2004 Kilian Fischhuber
2005 (2) Kilian Fischhuber Dmitri Sarafutdinov
2006 Tomáš Mrázek David Lama Kilian Fischhuber
2007 Tomáš Mrázek Kilian Fischhuber
2008 David Lama Tomáš Mrázek
2009 Adam Ondra Sachi Amma
2010 Adam Ondra (2) Jakob Schubert Sachi Amma
2011 Jakob Schubert Sean McColl
2012 Jakob Schubert (2) Sean McColl Sachi Amma
2013 Jakob Schubert (3) Sean McColl Sachi Amma
2014 Sean McColl Adam Ondra Domen Škofic
2015 Adam Ondra (3) Sean McColl Domen Škofic
2016 Sean McColl (2) Jakob Schubert Kokoro Fujii
2017 Tomoa Narasaki Chon Jong-won Kokoro Fujii
2018 Jakob Schubert (4) Tomoa Narasaki Kokoro Fujii
2019 Tomoa Narasaki (2) Adam Ondra Jakob Schubert

Women's results

Complete rankings starting from the 1991 season are available on the IFSC web site.

Lead

YearWinnerSecondThird
1989 Robyn Erbesfield
1990 Isabelle Patissier
Lynn Hill
1991 Isabelle Patissier (2) Robyn Erbesfield
1992 Robyn Erbesfield Isabelle Patissier Lynn Hill
1993 Robyn Erbesfield (2) Elena Ovtchinnikova
1994 Robyn Erbesfield (3) Isabelle Patissier Natalie Richer
1995 Robyn Erbesfield (4) Liv Sansoz
1996 Liv Sansoz
1997 Muriel Sarkany Liv Sansoz
1998 Liv Sansoz (2) Muriel Sarkany
1999 Muriel Sarkany (2) Liv Sansoz
2000 Liv Sansoz (3) Muriel Sarkany
2001 Muriel Sarkany (3) Sandrine Levet
2002 Muriel Sarkany (4) Sandrine Levet
2003 Muriel Sarkany (5) Sandrine Levet Angela Eiter
2004 Angela Eiter Muriel Sarkany
2005 Angela Eiter (2) Maja Vidmar
2006 Angela Eiter (3) Sandrine Levet
2007 Maja Vidmar Angela Eiter Muriel Sarkany
2008 Johanna Ernst Maja Vidmar Mina Markovič
2009 Johanna Ernst (2) Jain Kim Maja Vidmar
2010 Jain Kim Mina Markovič Angela Eiter
2011 Mina Markovič Jain Kim Maja Vidmar
2012 Mina Markovič (2) Jain Kim Johanna Ernst
2013 Jain Kim (2) Mina Markovič
2014 Jain Kim (3) Mina Markovič
2015 Mina Markovič (3) Jain Kim Jessica Pilz
2016 Janja Garnbret Anak Verhoeven Jain Kim
2017 Janja Garnbret (2) Jain Kim Anak Verhoeven
2018 Janja Garnbret (3) Jessica Pilz Jain Kim
2019 Seo Chae-hyun Janja Garnbret
2021 Janja Garnbret (4) Natalia Grossman Laura Rogora
2022 Janja Garnbret (5) Seo Chae-hyun Natalia Grossman
2023 Jessica Pilz Janja Garnbret
2024 Jessica Pilz (2) Janja Garnbret Ai Mori

Bouldering

YearWinnerSecondThird
1999 Sandrine Levet
2000 Sandrine Levet Delphine Martin
2001 Sandrine Levet (2)
2002

Lisa Rands
2003 Sandrine Levet (3)
2004 Sandrine Levet (4)
2005 Sandrine Levet (5)
2006 Anna Stöhr
2007
2008 Anna Stöhr Akiyo Noguchi
2009 Akiyo Noguchi Anna Stöhr
2010 Akiyo Noguchi (2) Anna Stöhr Chloé Graftiaux
2011 Anna Stöhr (2) Akiyo Noguchi Alex Puccio
2012 Anna Stöhr (3) Akiyo Noguchi Shauna Coxsey
2013 Anna Stöhr (4) Akiyo Noguchi Alex Puccio
2014 Akiyo Noguchi (3) Shauna Coxsey Anna Stöhr
2015 Akiyo Noguchi (4) Shauna Coxsey Miho Nonaka
2016 Shauna Coxsey Miho Nonaka Mélissa Le Nevé
2017 Shauna Coxsey (2) Janja Garnbret Akiyo Noguchi
2018 Miho Nonaka Akiyo Noguchi
2019 Janja Garnbret Akiyo Noguchi
2021 Natalia Grossman Janja Garnbret Oriane Bertone
2022 Natalia Grossman (2) Miho Nonaka Brooke Raboutou
2023 Natalia Grossman (3) Miho Nonaka Brooke Raboutou
2024 Natalia Grossman (4) Oceania Mackenzie

Speed

YearWinnerSecondThird
1998 Alena Ostapenko
1999 (2) Alena Ostapenko Zosia Podgorbounskikh
2000 Olena Ryepko Zosia Podgorbounskikh
2001 (3) Agung Ethi Hendrawati Zosia Podgorbounskikh
2002 Olena Ryepko (2) Maya Piratinskaya Valentina Yurina
2003 Valentina Yurina Olena Ryepko
2004 Tatiana Ruyga Agung Ethi Hendrawati
2005 Valentina Yurina Olga Evstigneeva
2006 Tatiana Ruyga (2) Valentina Yurina
2007 Tatiana Ruyga (3) Svitlana Tuzhylina
2008 Edyta Ropek Olena Ryepko Svitlana Tuzhylina
2009 Edyta Ropek (2) Valentina Yurina
2010 Yulia Levochkina Ksenia Alekseeva Edyta Ropek
2011 Edyta Ropek (3) Maria Krasavina Alina Gaydamakina
2012 Alina Gaydamakina Yulia Levochkina Maria Krasavina
2013 Alina Gaydamakina (2) Yulia Kaplina Aleksandra Rudzinska
2014 Maria Krasavina Yulia Kaplina Anouck Jaubert
2015 Maria Krasavina (2) Anouck Jaubert Yulia Kaplina
2016 Yulia Kaplina Anouck Jaubert Klaudia Buczek
2017 Anouck Jaubert Yulia Kaplina Maria Krasavina
2018 Anouck Jaubert (2) Aries Susanti Rahayu Yulia Kaplina
2019 Song Yiling Anouck Jaubert Aries Susanti Rahayu
2021 Emma Hunt Aleksandra Miroslaw
Ekaterina Barashchuk
2022 Aleksandra Kałucka Emma Hunt Natalia Kałucka
2023 Natalia Kałucka Aleksandra Mirosław Deng Lijuan
2024 Deng Lijuan Natalia Kałucka Jimin Jeong

Combined

YearWinnerSecondThird
1998[9] Olena Ostapenko
1999 Isabelle Bihr
2000 Liv Sansoz Sandrine Levet
2001 Sandrine Levet
Annatina Schultz
2002 Sandrine Levet (2)
2003 Sandrine Levet (3)
2004 Sandrine Levet (4)
2005 Sandrine Levet (5)
2006 Angela Eiter Maja Vidmar
2007 Angela Eiter Svitlana Tuzhylina
2008 Akiyo Noguchi Johanna Ernst
2009 Akiyo Noguchi (2) Jain Kim Johanna Ernst
2010 Jain Kim Akiyo Noguchi
2011 Mina Markovič Jain Kim Akiyo Noguchi
2012 Mina Markovič (2) Jain Kim Akiyo Noguchi
2013 Mina Markovič (3) Akiyo Noguchi
2014 Akiyo Noguchi (3) Mina Markovič
2015 Jain Kim (2) Akiyo Noguchi
2016 Janja Garnbret Akiyo Noguchi Jessica Pilz
2017 Janja Garnbret (2) Jain Kim Shauna Coxsey
2018 Janja Garnbret (3) Akiyo Noguchi Miho Nonaka
2019 Janja Garnbret (4) Akiyo Noguchi Jessica Pilz

Season podium table

Updated after season 2023 (Men's Category)

Updated after season 2023 (Women's Category)

Medal table

Updated after Seoul 2024

See also

External links

Notes and References

  1. Web site: Climbing Competitions' History. ifsc-climbing.org. 19 May 2013. https://web.archive.org/web/20150924033224/http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/about-ifsc/what-is-the-ifsc/history. 24 September 2015. dead.
  2. Web site: Rules 2022 . March 2022 . 2023-05-12 .
  3. Web site: Event Regulations.
  4. Before 1998, the World Cup consisted only of lead climbing competitions. In 1998, for the first time a speed event was introduced, which was held in Beauregard (Italy). A combined title was also awarded. However, only 3 women and 2 men competed in both disciplines and hence met the requirements to be ranked for the combined title.
  5. Web site: IFSC Rules modifications 2018. ifsc-climbing.org. 19 May 2019. https://web.archive.org/web/20190526205232/https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/images/World_Competitions/IFSC-Rules_modification_2018_V15.pdf. 26 May 2019. live.
  6. Web site: IFSC Rules modifications 2019. ifsc-climbing.org. 19 May 2019. https://web.archive.org/web/20190526205232/https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/images/World_Competitions/IFSC-Rules_2019_v19_CHANGES.pdf. 26 May 2019. live.
  7. Web site: World Cup rankings and World rankings. www.ifsc-climbing.org.
  8. Web site: UIAA CLIMBING-WORLDCUP 1998: MEN COMBINED .
  9. Web site: UIAA CLIMBING-WORLDCUP 1998: WOMEN COMBINED .