| 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships | |
| Date: | 11–21 August 2019 |
| Competitors: | 253 athletes from 39 nations |
| Website: | https://jmsca-itadaki.com/s/n93w/ |
| Venue: | Esforta Arena in Hachioji |
| Location: |  Hachioji, Japan |
| Prev: | Innsbruck 2018 |
The 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 16th edition, were held in Hachioji, Japan from 11 to 21 August 2019. The championships consisted of lead, speed, bouldering, and combined events. The paraclimbing event was held separately from 16 to 17 July in Briançon, France.[1] [2] The combined event also served as an Olympic qualifying event for the 2020 Summer Olympics.[3] [4]
| scope=row style="text-align:left" width=150 | Men's Lead | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| scope=row style="text-align:left" | Men's Bouldering | ||||
| scope=row style="text-align:left" | Men's Speed | ||||
| scope=row style="text-align:left" | Men's Combined | ||||
| scope=row style="text-align:left" | Women's Lead | ||||
| scope=row style="text-align:left" | Women's Bouldering | ||||
| scope=row style="text-align:left" | Women's Speed | ||||
| scope=row style="text-align:left" | Women's Combined |
See main article: Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics – Qualification. The seven best climbers of the combined event automatically qualify for the 2020 Summer Olympics, where sport climbing will make its debut. There are seven spots available per gender, with a maximum of two spots per country.[5]
The qualifiers for the 2020 Summer Olympics from the 2019 World Championships Combined events are:
* , as the host nation, were guaranteed two quota places in each event. However, despite four climbers of each gender being in qualification positions in Hachioji, only two athletes of each gender could receive Olympic invitations. Ogata and Nonaka were later named after some debate as to whether the Japanese team could choose their two athletes, or whether the spots must go to the top two qualifying athletes.
All times and dates use Japan Standard Time (UTC+9) [6]
| Q | Qualifications | SF | Semi-finals | F | Finals |
| B | Bouldering | L | Lead | S | Speed | C | Combined |
| August 2019 | 11th Sun | 12th Mon | 13th Tue | 14th Wed | 15th Thu | 16th Fri | 17th Sat | 18th Sun | 19th Mon | 20th Tue | 21st Wed | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Men | B | B | B | L | L | L | Rest day | S | S | C | C | |||
| Women | B | C | C | |||||||||||
| Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final[7] |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Janja Garnbret | 5t5z 5 5 | 3t4z 7 6 | 3T3z 8 8 |
| 2 | Akiyo Noguchi | 5t5z 9 9 | 2t4z 3 8 | 2T2z 4 2 |
| 3 |  Shauna Coxsey | 3t5z 6 9 | 0t3z 0 6 | 2T2z 6 6 |
| 4 | 4t5z 14 14 | 1t2z 2 3 | 1T2z 3 4 | |
| 5 | Miho Nonaka | 3t4z 4 8 | 0t3z 0 5 | 1T2z 5 6 |
| 6 | 5t5z 12 10 | 1t2z 1 5 | 0T1z 0 1 | |
| Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final[8] |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Tomoa Narasaki | 4t4z 8 5 | 2t4z 2 4 | 2T4z 12 20 |
| 2 | 3t4z 5 6 | 1t4z 3 12 | 0T3z 0 10 | |
| 3 | Yannick Flohé | 3t5z 5 14 | 2t4z 13 16 | 0T3z 0 13 |
| 4 | 4t4z 5 5 | 2t4z 5 6 | 0T3z 0 18 | |
| 5 | 3t5z 6 8 | 2t4z 5 10 | 0T2z 0 9 | |
| 6 |  Adam Ondra | 5t5z 6 6 | 3t4z 11 7 | 0T0z 0 0 |
| Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final[9] | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Route 1 | Route 2 | Points | ||||||
| Score | Rank | Score | Rank | |||||
| 1 | Janja Garnbret | TOP | 1 | TOP | 1 | 1.22 | 38+ | 43+ |
| 2 | Mia Krampl | 35+ | 6 | 32 | 7 | 7.35 | 34 | 39+ |
| 3 | Ai Mori | 39+ | 2 | TOP | 1 | 1.73 | 34+ | 38+ |
| 4 |  Seo Chae-hyun | 34 | 8 | 38 | 4 | 5.66 | 32 | 38+ |
| 5 | Akiyo Noguchi | 34+ | 7 | 33+ | 6 | 6.48 | 32 | 38+ |
| 6 |  Jessica Pilz | 37+ | 3 | 31+ | 12 | 8.26 | 30+ | 35+ |
| 7 | Vita Lukan | 28 | 21 | 31+ | 12 | 21.18 | 35 | 30+ |
| 8 |  Julia Chanourdie | 31+ | 10 | 31+ | 12 | 14.97 | 30+ | 30+ |
| Rank | Name | Qualification | Semi-Final | Final[10] | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Route 1 | Route 2 | Points | ||||||
| Score | Rank | Score | Rank | |||||
| 1 | Adam Ondra | TOP | 1 | 31 | 22 | 9.07 | 37+ | 34+ |
| 2 | Alex Megos | TOP | 1 | 32+ | 7 | 6.06 | 40+ | 33+ |
| 3 | Jakob Schubert | TOP | 1 | TOP | 1 | 3.50 | 30+ | 33+ |
| 4 | Tomoa Narasaki | TOP | 1 | TOP | 1 | 3.50 | 38 | 30 |
| 5 |  Sean McColl | 31+ | 9 | TOP | 1 | 5.61 | 37+ | 30 |
| 6 |  Stefano Ghisolfi | 28+ | 18 | TOP | 1 | 8.05 | 29+ | 29+ |
| 7 | Kai Harada | 32+ | 8 | TOP | 1 | 5.29 | 31+ | 28+ |
| 8 | 29+ | 11 | 32+ | 7 | 11.68 | 29+ | 27+ | |
Aleksandra Miroslaw won the women's speed final against Di Niu. In the small final Anouck Jaubert (7.534) won against YiLing Song (9.768) and secured the third place.[11]
Ludovico Fossali won the men's speed final against Jan Kriz. In the small final Stanislav Kokorin (5.835) won against Danyil Boldyrev (5.934) and secured the third place.[12]
Climbers who participated in all three events of bouldering, lead, and speed would receive a combined ranking, and the top 20 of each gender would automatically qualify for the combined event.
In combined competition, scoring is based on a multiplication formula, with points awarded by calculating the product of the three finishing ranks achieved in each discipline within the combined event. A competitor finishing with a first, a second and a sixth would thus be awarded 1 x 2 x 6 = 12 points, with the lowest scoring competitor winning.[13]
| Rank | Name | Points | Speed | Bouldering | Lead | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rank | Time | Rank | class=unsortable | Score | Rank | Holds | |||
| 1 | Janja Garnbret | 12.00 | 6 | 13.399 | 2 | 1T2z 1 2 | 1 | Top | |
| 2 | Akiyo Noguchi | 21.00 | 7 | 10.082 | 1 | 2T2z 3 3 | 3 | 40+ | |
| 3 | Shauna Coxsey | 42.00 | 2 | 9.225 | 3 | 1T2z 2 3 | 7 | 20 | |
| 4 |  Aleksandra Mirosław | 64.00 | 1 | 7.750 | 8 | 0T0z 0 0 | 8 | 10 | |
| 5 | Miho Nonaka | 80.00 | 4 | 12.356 | 4 | 1T2z 3 4 | 5 | 23+ | |
| 6 | Ai Mori | 80.00 | 8 | 12.860 | 5 | 1T2z 3 7 | 2 | Top | |
| 7 | Futaba Ito | 120.00 | 5 | 8.655 | 6 | 0T2z 0 2 | 4 | 27 | |
| 8 | Petra Klingler | 126.00 | 3 | 8.901 | 7 | 0T2z 0 3 | 6 | 23+ | |
| Rank | Name | Points | Speed | Bouldering | Lead | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rank | Time | Rank | class=unsortable | Score | Rank | Holds | |||
| 1 | Tomoa Narasaki | 4.00 | 2 | fall | 1 | 3T3z 4 3 | 2 | 30 | |
| 2 | Jakob Schubert | 35.00 | 7 | 7.208 | 5 | 0T3z 0 6 | 1 | Top | |
| 3 |  Rishat Khaibullin | 40.00 | 1 | 5.915 | 8 | 0T1z 0 2 | 5 | 22 | |
| 4 | Kai Harada | 54.00 | 3 | 6.348 | 6 | 0T2z 0 6 | 3 | 30 | |
| 5 | Meichi Narasaki | 60.00 | 5 | 6.689 | 2 | 1T3z 1 4 | 6 | 21 | |
| 6 | Kokoro Fujii | 72.00 | 6 | 9.438 | 3 | 1T3z 2 6 | 4 | 29+ | |
| 7 | Mickaël Mawem | 112.00 | 4 | 6.716 | 4 | 1T2z 3 4 | 7 | 20 | |
| 8 | Alexander Megos | 448.00 | 8 | 7.570 | 7 | 0T1z 0 1 | 8 | 0 | |